Monday, March 31, 2008

Old Man and the Tea

So what do a 2'x 4' pane of glass, a 40-gallon basket of piglets, two flat screen TVs, a hog, two tourists, 47 watermelon-sized squash, and a Vietnamese family with twins have in common?

They can all fit on the back of a small motorcycle. (Actually, if it was Cambodia, they'd all be on the back of the SAME motorcylce!) These drivers are amazing!!! Who needs a station wagon when you can carry all that you need on a 2-wheeler?

We rented a motorcylce today and drove 48 kilometers up into the foothills to explore so Cham ruins. Except for a few short rides in Cambodia, I haven't been on a motorcycle since I was a kid. Andy grew up riding, and so we felt safe enough, particularly in this rural area where the traffic is mostly other 2-wheeled vehicles. It was so fun going at our own pace (not dependent on a driver or having to negotiate fares). The seat was fairly uncomfortable for our big gringo derriers, but the thrill of the adventure far outweighed our aching backsides.

About 2/3 of the way through the trip we stopped for a photo op in the middle of a little village. As I was taking pics of a woman carrying huge baskets overflowing with ....something?...., a very old man came out of his house and crossed the street to talk with Andy. He spoke a small amount of English, and was giving Andy directions up to My Son (the ruins where we were headed). He looked to be in his 80s, so thin of frame that his chest and abdomen were concave, either by age or poor nutrition. But he carried the friendliest smile, and a genuine interest in helping us understand where to go. As we started to put away the camera to leave, in his couple of broken words of English, we understood him to say he was inviting us to his house for tea.

To say his home was modest is to overstate it. His bare cement, one-roomed home room contained a table and chairs, a thermos of hot water, a tea pot, three glasses, a few posters on the wall, and a mango. He shared his tea, mango and home with pride, all the while trying to communicate with us in Vietnamese, English and French (oh how I wish we spoke French!). We got that he used to be a French interpreter, but not much more than that. We were able to share that we have a son (showed pictures), and how old we are. Beyond that it was simply four souls (a neighbor joined us) trying to communicate across a language barrier beyond our abilities. Still. what an honor! He refused our offer of compensation for the mango, only wishing us well and sending us on our way. What a real privelege to be invited in a home, especially by someone who has seen many hard times. I can't see opportunities like this happening in America, with our closed houses, air-conditioned cars, and lifestyles that leave little time for anyone we don't already know.

As for the ruins -- they look like they're straight out of Indiana Jones (duh-duh-duh-DUH!). Over 1000 years old (I bet they didn't have building permit problems back then!), they have survived tropical storms and jungle. The rock is a different color than those at Angkor Wat. Almost a brick red, the contrast with lush green of the forest-jungle is striking.

More tomorrow --- it's bedtime here!

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Gone from Saigon -- headed far, far a Hue

Sorry for the bad pun :)

We are in Hue now (pronounced "whay") -- a city famous for its poets, scholars, and emporers. Hue sits more or less at the halfway point between Saigon and Hanoi. Since we are on a short holiday (unlike nearly all the Europeans we've met, who are travelling for a month or two or more), we hopped a flight rather than taking the train or open bus here. The down time before the flight gave us a chance to see a few more sights in Ho Chi Minh City before we left. Somehow we found the same cycle driver we had the other day (or he found us..... hmmmm.............???) and so cruised the city at the breakneck speed of, well, as fast as a 58 year old guy can pedal an aging bike with a buggy and tourist attached.

Hue is beautiful at night (which is all we've seen of it, really). Huge old stone structures rising like palaces, waterways lit to reflect back on the stone walls of the canals, giant courtyards in front of the Citadel, and wide tree-lined walkways stretching the length of the many waterfronts throughout the Imperial City. Moats, small lakes and the Perfume River define the layout of the streets in the area, and at night locals come in hoards to walk along the water, play "futbol" in the courtyards, and cruise the streets on Honda oms and bicylces. The whole fortress area is probably 4000 meters across, and every bit of it seems pleasantly alive, and very romantic as far as cities go. (Of course, sitting on a slab of rock along a river bank somewhere, listening to water lapping on PVC, the smell of wet gear wafting through the air is also just as romantic, depending on your perspective.) So...while we aren't exactly city folk, we are loving every minute of it here.

Well...OK. Almost every minute of it.

But first I have to tell you about our hike today. It starts off with a conversation that went something like this:

Waiter: "Where you go today?"
Me: "To Bach Ma"
Waiter: "Ba ca?"
Me: "Oh! Ba Ca." I said it very carefully, so as to get it right this time.
Waiter: "Ba ca?"
Me: "Yes, Ba Ca."
Waiter: "Ba private ca?"
Me: "Huh?" (intelligence dropping by the minute)
Waiter: "You go by private ca?"
OH! ding ding ding! Me: "Yes, by private car!"
Waiter: "Ba private ca to Bach Ma?"
Me: "Yes.....I think so......."

So off we went, ba private ca, to Bach Ma National Park, a huge ecological preserve marking the biggest green space of its kind between Laos and the coast. The mountains there reach up to 1700 meters, and we drove up to nearly 1500m before starting our first hike. The single-lane road was crazy narrow and windy, with hillsides nearly vertical on both sides of the road. Road crews were busy repairing washouts from the nearly 8 meters (8 METERS!) of rain they get there every year. And we thought Washington was wet.

At the top we picked our way through a trail overgrowing with vines, bamboo, and tall grasses, out toward a former helicopter landing area (the whole terrain was a heavy combat area during the American war). Losing the trail, and afraid of losing ourselves, we turned back for the main trail. Andy scampered up and around the corner while I stopped to look at an inchworm that was cruising at breakneck speed (at least as fast as that 58 yr old cyclo driver) toward my foot. I couldn't believe how efficiently he was moving -- tail to head, then stretching out and repeating the whole thing over again, quick inch by inch, as if rushing off somewhere. But why toward me? That was weird.

Then I noticed my shoes. And my socks. And somewhere in the back of my brain I could feel it dawn, the gears of consciousness struggling to awaken... Oh my god. Leeches. LEECHES.

"Andy!" ........no answer.

My feet and ankles are covered in leeches......Breathe. Breathe. MY FEET AND ANKLES ARE COVERED IN LEECHES. Heart pounding.

"ANDY!!!!" ......still no answer. ""AAAANDDYYY!!!!"

YYYucccckkkkkk!

Andy never did hear me (off taking pictures of course!) and I had to act like a grown up and reign in the panic and get the damn things off. UGgggh.

In truth they never did stick directly to my skin long enough to really attach, but they were burrowing in the lace holes and every other crevice on my boots, suctioned to my socks (how they do I don't know), climbing ever higher by the second. Holy cow. There is no caffeine rush quite equivalent to the adrenaline rush I got from the sight of them squirming all over my lower extremities. While I never had another incident quite so bad, I continued to find a close cousin, leechus imaginarius (purely the product of an overactive mind and poor vision) on my toes, ankles and legs throughout the rest of the day.

All that aide, it really was a good day, and a beautiful park. Incredibly steep hillsides just covered in jungle forest, dropping away to rice paddies and the lagoon far below. We hiked along a waterfall trail with several deep, emerald green pools perfect for swimming. :) And yes, we did.
We heard all sorts of insects with little tiny chainsaws (I swear that's what it sounds like), and a number of striking bird calls, including one who would consistently answer Andy's immitation gibbon call. And, we think we actually heard two gibbons calling back and forth, but couldn't be sure since the forest was so thick, and because, well, we aren't entirely sure what gibbons sound like. (Maybe they sound like Andy.)

Anyway -- back at the hotel in Hue now, three fruit smoothies, a Hue mushroom-shrimp-sprout pancake, and a plate of squid later. We topped off the evening with a serious study session on American culture with a local waiter who is studying to become an English teacher. He was preparing for his final exam, and had all sorts of questions he was having trouble finding the answer to: everything from who walks down the aisle immediately before the bride to what the beliefs of Martin Luther King and Malcomb X were. Interesting stuff, it is, to look at "American culture" as a topic of study. Not sure if we successfully explained "Keeping up with the Jones'".

Tam-bi-uht from Hue!



More Pics

Big white guy at the helm Here are just a few pics, We think we have captured some great shots, but when we put this card in to download these pics, a virus was placed on the camera card. So you will have to wait till we get home to see more
One of our guides
The floating market
Check out this chick!









Pics












Thursday, March 27, 2008

Frogger

So do you remember that Atari game "Frogger". Crossing the street here is much like advanced levels of Frogger, except that we are actually successful at it here (so far......)

Imagine looking to the left and seeing 2 dozens or so Honda om (motorcycles) bearing down upon the patch of street you intend to cross. They come in a steady stream, no clear breaks in between. And then you take a deep breath and step off the curb. Keep moving....moving....keeping the same pace. Handlebars swish behind you, inches from your back. Tires leave the pavement a foot's width before your soles land in the same spot. Keep moving...don't hesitate. It's like a fine set of gears, each tooth out of the way before the next falls into place. The biggest mistake you can make is to hesitate, to interrupt the flow. A cough in the gears could make everything come to a grinding, schreeching, foreigner-squishing halt. Keep moving. Don't think too much.... Almost to the other side. Don't forget to breath. Don't look sideways too much -- have to see where you are going. At last you arrive at the other side. Somehow it all works. I've seen no one squished yet.

They enacted a helmet law here 2 months ago. Amazingly, people seem to follow it. This is the first country I've seen (other than the US) where brain buckets are the norm. I was also going to say they seem to drive more conservatively here compared to Cambodia...but then we had a 3 hr bus ride last night that put that in doubt. Girls on bicycles swerve in and among buses barrelling down the "hip hop highway" (so dubbed by our VH guide because of all the bumps in the road!) at 40 mph, sometimes sandwiched between a bus and a delivery truck with just inches to spare on both sides. We sat in the front seats of the bus along with an Australian and an Irish woman, and all of us were squirming in anticipation of the potential disasters an arms reach out the window, but all for naught. The VN bike riders don't even seem to flinch, let alone look back to see what is bearing down on them. Again, it all seems to work -- buses, bicycles, pedestrians, Honda om weaving together flawlessly.

"Me-kon De-uhta"

Wow....where to begin. Just in fromour 3-day Mekong Delta tour. So much to tell but can't fit it all in...

The story begins with an unfortunate incident in the bathroom at our hotel. .....So there I was.....sitting....sitting......when I hear the person on the other side of the wall (another room) flush, and suddenly the toilet underneath me erupted like a volcano, spewing and burbling things from unknown parts all over my back side. EEEEEEeeeeeeWWWWWWWWWW!!!!! Needless to say I hit the showers. Makes one appreciate the finer art of American plumbing.

The next morning we got up at 5:30 (well, woke up at 3:30 because of jetlag,and layed there for a couple hours, until we fell asleep for a few minutes right beforethe alarm went off). We packed our bags, had a quick breakfast of VN coffee, tea, baguette & jam (birthday cake was also on the menu, but we didn't order that!) and then hurriedly huffed our packs and camera gear and water bottles about 1/2mile to the travel agency where we met our tour. We stowed the big bags, then boarded the bus, only to ride it back across town to...the front door of our very guest house, where everyone ELSE on the tour was getting picked up! Oops.

Off we went, 3 days in the delta, a whirlwind tour of boats, boats andmore boats. We probably rode on at least a dozen if not more --- little ones like canoes, speedboats, rowboats with criss-cross oars, junks (refers to the type of boat, not what it carries!). The boats carried us through a maze of waterways and delta islands so intricate we felt as if we could have gone either 4 miles or 400 miles and we wouldn't know the difference.

To our surprise, our enormous new camera lens (roughly the size of a small cannon -- what were we thinking???!) has been a conversation starter rather than an intimidator. The guides and the locals are curious about such a hefty piece of equipment, and love to tell us to take photos of their friends, or they want to take photos of us with it. We've handed the whole thing over a number of times, and so actually have a few pics of us together on this trip. Nice, considering tomorrow is our 10th anniversary!

Today one such venture lead to another, and soon Andy found himself standing at the helm of the rowboat, delicately balanced on the stern platform pushing on the long, narrow criss-cross oars that propel the boat (and me, and our camera and our guide) down the Mekong. The guides thought it was a hoot that the big tall white guy could row, and Andy and I were grinning ear to ear. I got a turn as well, but got "fired" in short order because we were heading in among the houseboats and I simply couldn't steer the darn thing straight! We were quite the spectacle, garnering comments from people on the houses and the other boats. Our guide was enjoying it as well, and didn't laugh too awfully hard at my attempts to do as well as Andy! Our main guide later told us it's the first time he's ever seen a tourist row one of those boats. Pretty cool :)

The first night of the trip was a homestay in a little village on Bihn An island. There, we walked the trails to town in the evening, and on the way got waylaid by a group of men having cocktail hour. Andy was urged then cheered on as he threw back a shooter of sake. (I think they all had more fun than he did!).

Last night we overnighted on a junk -- a beautiful wooden boat with rooftop decks and lots of windows indoors. As we slept, the boat cruised 100k up the Mekong. I awoke at 4:30 (slightly better than the first night), so tiptoed up to the deck for the cool breeze and a change of scenery. As the sun came up, a handful of us watched the waters around us transform from a river as empty as the Columbia to center of commerce as busy as any major US shopping mall. The floating market seemed to wake up more with every minute, and by the time the sky turned from black to pink to a hazy grey, there were coconut barges, banana boats, fishing boats and dozens of others crowded in and among eachother for the next 1/2 mile. We watched, and when they weren't busy, they watched us.

People here are so very friendly. Quick to wave, and quicker to smile. True, genuine smiles. It seems as if they are truly as happy to see us as we are to be here. We haven't experienced the jaded, commerce-laden interactions of other countries.

I haven't yet learned many VN words, as we have in other countries. I was all excited to try out a sentence I've been practicing ("that was a very good meal"), when I read in a book about an American diplomat that was aiming to bridge the cultural gap and ease tensions by doing the same. He intended to say "I am very honored to be here," and instead, in this highly tonal language, it sounded to VN ears as if he'd said "the sunburnt duck lies sleeping!" So........I'm practicing my sentence a little more. :)

I know how to say hair cut, duck, and thank you. Those should come in handy.

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

We are boat people (but you already knew that)

Hello from the Mekong Delta! A quickie -- we are on bikes & still have to get back for lunch before our boat leaves....

Statistics for this jaunt: Numbers of:

Boats we've seen -- 5000+ easily
Boats we've been on in the last 2 days -- 6 or 7
Bicycles we've been on -- 2
Total number of bicyle pedals at the end of the trip -- 3
Degrees --- Africa hot
People -- 10 stars :)
Bushels of longan fruit at the "factory" this morning: 30+
Boatloads of long grain rice -- 100's
Photos taken to date: 400+
Spring rolls eaten -- not enough
Waterways & canals in the delta -- 2000

Wonderful 3-day tour through the Mekong Delta. I had no idea how central the waterways are to the way of life here. They are everything. The canals and rivers are freeways, access to homes, transport routes for everything from rice to soda to pineapple to sand to gasoline. Kids grow up on boats. Pilots steer from hammocks (try that on I-5!). At any given moment in any stretch of water there are 20-40 boats within eyesight.

We did a homestay last night. More like a dormitory in the home (all 10 of us slept there), but it was in the jungle. Homes connected by small diked pathways just big enough for a motorcyle. We were free to wander and explore. Watched the sun set over a bridge with kids flying kitess until it was too dark too see. Great uproar when 2 kites got tangled!

Will write more when we can.... off to yet another boat through another waterway. Love it here.

Monday, March 24, 2008

Hola! ....I mean sin chao!

Just a quickie here because we're headed to the boat.... And I'm not sure what Andy wrote already because I can't get his posts to pull up, so sorry if this is a duplicate...

We spent the day yesterday wearing down the soles of our Chacos on the streets of Saigon. Found a GIANT market (ooooh....lots of goodies, but don't want to lug them around for a week so we'll come back the last day). Had an avocado shake, lots of spring rolls, etc. It's very sticky hot, but not unbearable. Also didn't see too alwfully many tourists until dinner time. Apparently we all congregate for creature comforts at the end of a long day.

Took a nice long cyclo ride with a toothless guide (Andy's driver) and a guy who reports that he was on the roof when the last Americans were airlifted out of Saigon three decades ago, and has a large dimpled scar above his eye where he was shot. He was my cylco driver. FULL of knowledge about the city and sites. Talked 100 miles an hour and I know he was speaking English the whole time but I only got about 30% of it! Went to the War Museum, a gruesome reminder of things past and present, including a whole recent photography exhibit on land mines and demining around the world. Very, very sad doesn't express it all.

Today we are headed on a 3-day boat (& some biking I hope) adventure through the Mekong Delta. Sampans and fast boats. One night with a host family and one night on the boat. Should be fun! Andy continues his quest for pepper salted squid, but so far the best is still to be found in Portland!

I miss Cedar.

Having fun! Will post again when we can!

Reb (& Andy)

Day one in Siagon

We had a good first day. Spent most of the day getting in to
the swing and doing a little sight seeing in the city. we
rented cycloes and spent several hours listing to the driver
huff and puff as he tried to push me around the city. We
booked a three day trip down the Mekcong delta, we will do
a combination of boats, busses, biking, do a night as a home
stay and on the second night stay on a junk river boat. back
late Thur night, We will call your Thur AM around 07:30
Andy

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Siagon

Just a short post, after a little over 20 hrs of travel we are here! We will post this afternoon when we get back from exploring

Andy + Rebecca

Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Heading Home

The final Mexico blog

The closer to the end of the trip the busier things became. When I last signed off we were headed to the BBQ. It was a very nice late night gathering attended by a number of dignitaries from El Grullo, the deer appeared to be about the size of a medium sized dog, very small by our standards. It was cooked in a pot with spices and didn’t taste too bad.

Monday: I did all the classroom lectures for my extraction class, in the morning. The afternoon was the Graduation ceremony. We held it a day early due to the Mayors from the towns represented not being available on Tuesday. We had a total of 30+ students throughout the class and gave 23 certificates of completion out, mostly based on attendance. After the graduation the Mayor of El Grullo took all the students, from all the towns, instructors, and all the students families that were in attendance, out to a very nice dinner, well over 40 people.

After the dinner four of us went to Autlan to a small orphanage and saw the kids there. Kyle had brought some small toys for all the kids, they were thrilled. The orphanage was very small with 17 children from ages 4 or 5 to 17, both boys and girls. Two years ago there were 11 children and they thought they were over crowded. They do have a new building that they are waiting to move into. Just like the USA they are waiting for the occupancy permit. It’s hard to believe it is an issue compared to where they are now. Any way I managed to get out, without totally breaking into tears. The kids did seem very well cared for, happy, and very well behaved.

Tuesday morning came before class the former mayor took us out to a great breakfast in a neighboring village. Then it was time to go kill cars, otherwise known and auto extraction. The plan was to start at 09:00 sharp, as I told the students, 09:00, Not 09:05, not 09:15, not 09:30, not 10:00, but 09:00 ready to go. Some how most all the students made it on time. That is were the plan ended. At 10:00 we still did not have an interpreter, tools, know were the cars we were going to cut up were, or know when we would know. At 10:30 I decided to teach a forcible entry class off the cuff. We walked the neighborhood looking at locks, bars on windows, doors and gates making entry plans. I made the students pledge that they would only use the tricks I showed them for good and not evil! Finally about noon we got word were the cars were. We showed up at the junkyard and were met by a really scary looking older man, who showed us which cars we could work on. One was a van that a family had been killed in, on a head-on crash. I could see were they had worked on the doors without success. After being at the junkyard a while I finely gave up on getting the tools I was waiting for. Oh-well, make a new plan again. I was able to show some simple techniques with hand tools and we were able to get the vans doors open, rather off and out of the way in just a few minutes. We also cut up another older car. I think they did learn a lot. The day worked out ok but it was really hot out in the sun with no shade.

After class we checked out of the hotel that had been our home for the past week plus and boarded a van for a three hour ride through the mountains to the coast where we will fly out on Thursday afternoon.

Today we relaxed and wound down from our go full speed all day and night routine as well as did some debriefing and future planning. We also did a nice several mile hike down the beach and did some exploring as well as having a couple of good meals. Tomorrow we will have the morning and the head to the airport.

I want to thank everyone that has been following along with my adventure; left commits, and sent emails. I am planning on coming back to this area in the not too distant future to do more training and scout that river! In just two weeks I embark in an adventure with Rebecca to Vietnam, It will be a different type of trip; I’m really looking forward to seeing her and Cedar again.

Good Bye Mexico
Andy

Sunday, March 02, 2008

Just got back from the Square, the city Square is like the hub of the town with a carnival type atmosphere on a very small scale. The square is encompassed by and ice cream shop on each side, the church, city building, a couple of banks and countless other small shops, in the square are lots of park benches, food venders and lots of trees, it seems to be the place the entire town cognates in the evenings. Beings that graduation in tomorrow after noon we all took our boots down and had them shined. Mine were in very bad shape due to them being my work / teaching boots, they have not seen any wax in a long time. The shoeshine dude spent nearly a half of an hour on them and made them look academy new. He only charged $1, I gave him $3 what a bargain. Last nigh the guys from the fire department killed two deer for a BBQ tonight. So I’m headed off for a late dinner. Hope it’s not to late of a night I’m doing the teaching in the morning.

Some rope work







Day of ropes and more

Yesterday was my day to lead the teaching. I had the job of doing a rope rescue class. Ordinarily that would be no problem, you know ropes and me. The challenge was the lack of equipment. To do rescue systems by the book it is very gear intensive. Here we are very limited by equipment. El Grullo had two ropes, two prussic cords, several pulleys, six locking carabineers, and four non-locking carabineers. Autlan had one rope, two figure eights and two carabineers, Ayutla had nothing! I had brought down thanks to “Firefighters Crossing Borders” two prussic cords and a couple pieces of webbing. I started out by teaching knots followed with ladder slides with a two to one system. After lunch we moved up to the skate board park known as “Kent Washington” and built several systems with the gear on hand. The students all seemed to learn a lot, I really received a lot of good feed back saying that my class gave them real skills they would be able to use with the limited gear on hand. At the end of the day I was both mentally and physically exhausted, but it was a great day!

So we get done with teaching and it was time to go to dinner. We were hosted by Tiemo a rancher that heads the public lands distribution for farmers in the area. Just that night he had finished his new courtyard and entertaining area at his home (very nice). Also there were many other “movers and shakers” in attendance, including the past mayor that started the fire department, most of his former administration, a police chief from the next town and several other people that I’m not sure who they were. We had a great meal and lots of laughs and even got some work done. Home around 23:00.

I had a great talk with Rebecca via IM Live through the Internet before heading to bed. This morning I embarked on a cultural adventure and left at 07:00 with Tiemo, to go “milk cows” something that I had not done since I was a kid. It’s a good thing I don’t need to make my living milking cows. I was very slow. We still managed to get back in time for breakfast and get to class on time.

It hard to believe I’ve been here a week already, in some ways it seems like we just got here it others it seems like we have been here a long time. At any rate we have done a lot in a short time, and will do even more in the next few days.

This is a nine-day class with no days off. We know this has been really tough for a lot of the students, most of which are volunteers that had to take time off work to be here. The students from Autlan and Ayutla travel over and hour each way to be here. One of our students Gissell comes to class all day, leaves class to work an evening shift as a nurse at the hospital, then some nights pulls her volunteer shift all night at the fire department, before coming back to class. All of the students have put a lot of effort into their training. Today (Sunday) we are doing strategy and tactics, Monday I’ll teach the classroom portion of my extrication class, with Graduation in the afternoon. Then back again on Tuesday for the hands on part of extrication. Hopefully we will have several cars to kill at the wrecking yard. The Graduation will be attended by the student’s families, as well as the mayors and officials from the towns represented.
The El Grullo fire department had a video made that is on the Internet at http://www.cheshvan.blip.tv and click on the second picture. The guy that made the video is a local filmmaker that is very talented. Watching the video you would think they don’t need much help, just keep in mind some things look a lot better with editing and a good script. Anyway check it out it does give a good view of the area and people we are working with.